Chris:
Actually, as long as you don't block the ends, you shouldn't have problems. The
method under discussion is to make a localized freeze, as opposed to your
situation, where the whole piping system froze. In that case, the still liquid
water has no place to go, and builds up the pressure. But if it is a localized
freeze, the liquid water just gets displaced, and the ice plug doesn't build any
significant pressure. Moral - you can use a freeze stopple, but DON'T close the
block valves (or have a relief valve that will bleed off the pressure).
George McKinney
>Has anybody used a similar method for temporarily plugging a pipe?
Lots of people have in Minnesota. Regrettably the side effects involve
broken pipes or fittings, because water expands when it freezes. The pipe
usually unplugs itself at some point when it splits. I once inspected a
small house which was temporarily unoccupied when the furnace failed. The
water and hot water heating pipes had frozen the pipes and fittings had
split at many points in the system. Even the toilet tank had cracked, as
did cast radiators and pipe runs, without any pattern that was
immediately obvious.
I heard a story in grade school that some early American inventor once had a supply of surplus cannon balls that he wanted to sell, but couldn't because there was no way to guarantee that all the powder inside was gone. The guy simply filled them with water one winter night and spiked the fuse hole. Mother nature did the rest--the next morning every one had split neatly.
The upshot is that freezing the pipe generates tremendous internal pressure. If the plug is truly solid, you'll probably rupture the pipe.
Christopher Wright P.E. |"They couldn't hit an elephant at chrisw@skypoint.com | this distance" (last words of Gen. ___________________________| John Sedgwick, Spotsylvania 1864)http://www.skypoint.com/~chrisw
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Received on Thu Jul 29 14:17:00 2004
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