'ill go along with a flanged ball valve not due to the percieved
damage that may take place during welding (this is the easy part to
take care of) but rather due to the maintenance that would later
entails. i assure that repairing a 20" ball valve in situ is a pain.
- In PipingDesign@y..., "Don Splawn" <splawn@z...> wrote:
> 1. use a flanged valve
> or
> 2. remove ball and seat prior to welding.
>
> Don Splawn
> Piping Design
> ZAP Engr & Construction Services, Inc.
> 7304 S. Alton Way
> Englewood, CO 80112
> ph 720-529-4430 x-115
> email - splawn@z...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Engin Gulgun [mailto:egulgun@z...]
> Sent: Monday, August 26, 2002 10:15 AM
> To: 'PipingDesign@y...'
> Subject: [PipingDesign] Valve/Pipe Welding procedure
>
> Hello Group
>
> Can anyone give me some info regarding welding a ball valve (20")
to the
> pipe line. Since the valve is soft seated it is critical to keep
the
> seat
> and seal areas cool. But the main problem is how to keep weld
splutter
> away
> from the seat/ball area. This weld splutter cause to damage the
soft
> seat
> after valve is operated couple times.
>
> Engin
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Texas Flange - a good source for information on industrial
flanges, all
> they ask is for referrals for designs they help with.
> 877-610-8924.
> www.texasflange.com
> =====================================================
> unsubscribe: PipingDesign-unsubscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Received on Thu Nov 14 23:39:00 2002