The valve was obviously specified by civil engineers. They always nearly specify gate valves for big jobbies. And globes for anything with a delta p greater than the chart in the "Boys Own Book of Really Big Stuff". I thought the counterbore was to meet the 1:5 (or whatever) taper requirements of ANSI 31.?? and remove the casting crust. Who knows? I admire your exhaustion factor proposition on the closing rate of valves. Perhaps thatâs why they are always so bloody hard to turn off. And why butterfly valves always get a bad name. I just put one in as a (150NB) control valve on a dirty water circuit to howls of derision from the engineering review peanut gallery. I showed them a 3000NB (Kids, donât try this at home) previous successful example. Its just a vapour pressure, seat selection and characterisation thing. The peanut shower stopped, but I still think they do not trust me. And neither do I. But you have to push the boat out every so often.....
Cheers
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Badcock [mailto:rbadcock@vision.net.au]
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:29 PM
To: PipingDesign@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [PipingDesign] Big Valve Questions
Hey Steve,
I was actually thinking that it might be a double "O" ring spigot push in jobbie which may need a 20 litre bucket of pipe lube. I had not considered a dunny pipe; I guess ... well yes it probably would be suitable.
That big hand wheel is the companies latest techno development for water hammer mitigation, and it probably might work. By the time the bloke is to the last 10% of valve closure he is knackered, no more hammer.
Good to see that your sense of humour has not left you.
Cheers,
Robin
>
> Hi Robin
> do you think it may be a Victaulic connection? The valve looks a bit
> flash for dunny pipe, but then again the bonnet bolts do appear to be
> galvanised. I havent had much luck with Victaulics and superheated
> steam. I blame the welders electrode choice; they select low hydrogen
> hiten, but I reckon we need something softer to stick to rubber. Pity
> the poor sod who has to open and close the valve; I reckon a good 10
> minutes hard yakka each way. O Rotork; wherefore art thou? Judging by
> the haircut of the technician, its either an old photo, a "YMCA"
> workshop, or Pauls brother.
>
> Cheers
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robin Badcock [mailto:rbadcock@vision.net.au]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 8:42 PM
> To: PipingDesign@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [PipingDesign] Big Valve Questions
>
>
>
> Jeez Paul,
>
> That valve is a snap to install, couple of hours only. The hard part
> is pushing the pipe with the rubber ring into the machined rebate
> (that you can clearly see in the photo).
>
> The guy with the moustache is trying to figure out which bit to stick
> the delivery docket to and how he is going to get the cardboard box to
> hang together after it spends a week rolling around in the back of a
> freight truck.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Bowers" <pbowers@pipingdesign.com>
> To: <PipingDesign@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:00 AM
> Subject: [PipingDesign] Big Valve Questions
>
>
> >
> > I wonder how long/how many passes it takes to weld this into the
> > line, multiple shifts?
> >
> > http://www.pipingdesign.com/photos/large_valve.jpg
> >
> > The photo is from a Velan catalog, it's a 36", not sure of the
> > rating.
> >
> > For this size valve, are welded ends the best way to go (as opposed
> > to flanges)? The guts should be easily serviced through the bonnet.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > =========================================
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> > http://www.pipingoffice.us/
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> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> =========================================
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> http://www.pipingoffice.us/ =========================================
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